~*::.Pants are totaly filled with 1's and 0's.::*~ ([info]mysterymrglenn) wrote,
@ 2009-03-20 15:24:00
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Car Question
Anyone out there able to answer a question for me? What would i have to do to improve my Hyundai's acceleration? I know is a POS but would i have to buy a whole new transmission or something? i dont know crap about car mechanics btw :U

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[info]basilbadger
2009-03-20 10:54 pm UTC (link)
If your transmission isn't in good shape, anything you do to boost performance of the car will break it.

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[info]jean_luccougar
2009-03-20 11:34 pm UTC (link)
Get an aftermarket air intake kit. Swapping the original filter/air box for one that flows more air allows the engine to run more efficiently, cooler and saves on gas. :3

And if you want to really spend some money, consider getting a titanium, or aluminum flywheel for the tranny. Or you could swap the engine CPU for one that's tuned for performance.

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[info]harlkyn
2009-03-20 11:55 pm UTC (link)
Add a turbocharger!

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[info]mysterymrglenn
2009-03-21 12:53 am UTC (link)
i imagine one good engine rev and that thing would just rip right out of my car like snot on 1-ply tissue XD

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[info]wingywoof
2009-03-21 01:14 am UTC (link)
Join http://community.livejournal.com/motor_furs/ and ask there.

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[info]kitler1213
2009-03-21 01:16 am UTC (link)
Put stickers on it. Ricers swear by that method.

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[info]tekuryuu
2009-03-22 04:28 am UTC (link)
Qbert does too.

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[info]irc_goliath
2009-03-23 04:18 pm UTC (link)
Nononono... you have to add a spoiler, lower it, add a loud muffler, AND plaster stickers all over it

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[info]cabcat
2009-03-21 04:06 am UTC (link)
Don't get taken in with K&N or those cold air induction systems,
Most are crap and just suck hot air under the bonnet.
These' will help your acceleration without running the risk of doing damage, and without costing you a fortune. Also don't get suckered by adverts, I've never seen so much crap spouted as in the auto industry.

For cars acceleration is most affected by, engine power, drive train, weight and grip. Anything affecting these will affect acceleration however also remember, "Cheap, fast, reliable" Pick two.


1. Replace your spark plugs with Iridium Powers, and NGK ignition leads. Also replace your distributor cap and rotor button. They'll ensure a healthy spark and a good burn pattern.

2. At the same time get your timing checked and your valve clearances checked and adjusted.

3. Change the oil with good synthetic oil; use the grade for your car not too thin. And oil filter, decent brand again.

4. Replace air filter with standard paper item, K&N's may flow better but often don't filter as well and let pollutants into the engine. A lot of Cold air intakes don't do squat and just suck hot air from under the bonnet. Some actually reduce power but make a louder induction noise so people think it's working better.

5. Clean out the throttle body and butterfly flap with a throttle body cleaner, Ensure your throttle cable (if you have one) is adjusted so that there's only the required amount of slack.

6. Run the petrol low, change the fuel filter and then fill the tank with the highest octane you can get at the pump. Also add a bottle of fuel system cleaner to the tank when filling. (Like redex) Your ignition timing may be advanced slightly if the ECU doesn't control the timing. If your ecu does control it, remove the battery leads for a minute then reconnect and idle the car for 10minutes, for a lot of cars this lets the ecu adjust its air/fuel ratios.

7. If your transmission is a manual, ensure the clutch cable is adjusted, or the clutch hydraulic system has new fluid and is bled. If the clutch is worn or the take up is only right at the end of the pedal movement, replace the clutch pressure plate, drive plate and release bearing with an exedy oem (daikin) or the next version up, don't go for anything too extreme as it can make day to day driving a nightmare. Replace the transmission fluid with a good synthetic fluid. For the flywheel, get it machined and balanced and perhaps slightly lightened but don't go mad with lightning as it makes day to day driving really annoying.

8. If your transmission is an Automatic, replace fluid with a good synthetic fluid.

9. I'm assuming the car is FWD; if your tyres are worn out replace the front ones with decent tyres, Yokohama, toyo or kumho. You could possibly go one size wider but don't increase the rolling radius as that will slow acceleration even more. Make sure all your tyres are inflated properly, don't trust the petrol station gauges as they're usually pretty inaccurate.

10. Now Take the car on the freeway and run at constant high speed for about an hour. This will help blow any carbon deposits out of the engine. You'll notice your engine response improves over period of time. Keep using high octane.

11. Engine mounts, if your car is Front wheel drive and there's a lot of play in your engine mounts this causes energy to be lost in the movement of the engine/transmission rather than through the wheels. Just buy normal rubber ones as polyurethane ones will shake your teeth out.

12. If your car is FWD, get a good front end wheel alignment to keep the tyres properly on the road.

13. Remove any unnecessary weight from the car.

Now you have a good base for any further modifications.

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[info]tekuryuu
2009-03-22 04:27 am UTC (link)
Hey now,

I have a K&N cold intake in my truck, and I replaced the tubes all the way to the throttle body, and I *LOVE* it. Made a nice improvement in Seph's performance, and I did see a slight increase in MPG, and it sounds pretty good too. Of course, it has to be installed properly, otherwise yes, it just pulls hot air from the engine compartment. I'm working with K&N right now to get a beta test going on a modification of an existing kit to fit a vehicle they don't support (yet).

The other thing I have been playing with is (well, 2 things) a hydrogen injector and a propane injector. Used properly, they are very interesting devices. The local police out here are using the hydrogen one too, with outstanding performance. And they're made right here in Colorado, so they're GREAT for the altitude. The hydrogen one is an electrolytic converter, you add water and an ion mixture and it injects the hydrogen into the throttle body, and the oxygen into the passenger compartment. You don't want the oxygen in the fuel mixture, because it inserts after the MAF, and that excess oxy throws off the ECM when it calculates the o2 sensor. Anyway... neat little doodads.

Now I just need to finish the mod on the air flow all the way to the tailpipe. One step at a time. :)

Anyway, don't knock K&N just because you had one bad experience or heard someone saying something about it.

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[info]cabcat
2009-03-22 10:19 am UTC (link)
I knock K&N air filters from filtration tests and before and after dyno tests. But I won't get into this argument I shall modify the statement to I "personally" will not use K&N, due to personal research and observation.

Getting cars to run right in high altitudes has always been difficult. Although why inject after the MAF? Wouldn't that result in undesirable behaviour because you're bypassing the MAF so the engine is getting more air but is fueling for less? Having a higher oxygen content would increase the efficiency of the burn though especially considering your higher altitude. The problem is if the hydrogen and oxygen production are not at consistant concentrations.

Hmmm could having a low boost turbo improve efficiency too seeing as they'd compress the less dense air at high altitudes. I've always been a fan of water vapour injectors to help keep the humidity in the combustion process just right :)



Is this one of those "bubblers" or Brown's gas dealies?



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[info]cabcat
2009-03-21 04:06 am UTC (link)
Ideas that involve more work.

1. Get your Injectors removed cleaned and CC'd, this ensures each injector is allowing the same amount of fuel to each cylinder.
2. A good set of extractors (headers as you USAians say) be wary of off the shelf stuff as a lot of it is crap and usually makes things worth, tuned length extractors are usually for certain engine rpm ranges so a set easier flowing extractors are a better option for everyday.
3. Aftermarket exhaust for a naturally aspirated engine 2" piping is usually all you need and anything larger slows exhaust gasses too much or just makes this annoying flubbing sound. A high flow catalytic converter helps exhaust flow and engine response without crapping your emissions. A well made muffler will also just help more flow and keep the tip about 2" otherwise you just look like a sad ricer with a fart cannon on their car.
4. Loose or worn components in the front suspension cause loss of tyre grip due to abnormal alignment and movement under acceleration.
5. Head work to the engine cylinder head, 3 angle valve seats, and head flow tested to ensure equal flow through each head. Port matching on the inlet side. Shaving the head to increase compression ratio a bit to take better advantage of the high octane fuel. However this may mean the engine will require higher octane petrol for life, a higher spec head gasket and cylinder head bolts. Head machining and valve machining to reduce hot spots and increase air flow.
6. I'm not a fan of bolt on turbo kits for cars that never had turbos to begin with, but that is an option for a big increase in power and is very costly as it usually involves, the turbo, the extractors, engine management, fuel system, piping, different air intake, intercoolers and if needed frame reinforcing, seam welding or gusseting. Plus forced induction also brings along problems like, heat soak, extra wear and tear to the whole engine, drive train, suspension, front end welds, torque steer (especially in FWD cars without equal length drive shafts) damage to components not designed for substantial increase in power.

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[info]xylen
2009-03-21 07:49 am UTC (link)
A JATO? :)

Actually probably a good aftermarket air filter, better plugs, higher grade gas, change the fuel filter, upgrade your oil and make sure the tires are aired up will help.

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[info]soanos
2009-03-22 10:26 am UTC (link)
How about some patience? :)

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[info]irc_goliath
2009-03-23 04:20 pm UTC (link)
The answer to your question is, anything you would need to do to improve your car's acceleration would cost a significant chunk o' change that could go towards your new car instead :3

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